Tripe chorba

Method

1. Rinse the tripe under cold running water, then cover it with boiling water, leave it five minutes and scrape it clean with the back of a spoon. Throw that water away. This is the step people skip, and it is the one that decides whether the soup smells good.
2. Put the tripe and the bone in a large pot with three litres of fresh water, the onion, the whole carrots, the bay, the peppercorns and the dried hot pepper. Bring to the boil, skim, then simmer very gently for three to four hours, until the tripe is soft enough to bite through without effort.
3. Lift out the tripe and cut it into short, thin strips. Strain the broth, discard the aromatics, pick any meat off the bone and return everything to the clean pot along with the wine.
4. Bring it back to a simmer and let the wine cook out for ten minutes.
5. Make the roux: heat the oil in a small pan, stir in the flour and cook it to the colour of weak tea. Take the pan off the heat, and only then stir in the paprika — over the flame it scorches instantly and the bitterness never leaves.
6. Whisk in a ladle of hot broth, pour the roux into the pot and simmer fifteen minutes, stirring now and then, until the soup thickens slightly.
7. Warm the milk and stir it in, then take the pot off the heat before it boils again; boiled milk splits and the surface goes grainy. Salt to taste.
8. For the makalo, crush the garlic to a paste with a pinch of salt and slacken it with the vinegar and water. Stir in the parsley.
9. Ladle the chorba into deep bowls and pass the makalo, so each person stirs in as much garlic and sharpness as they want.