Malidzano

Method

1. Roast the aubergines and peppers whole, straight over a gas flame or under a hot grill, turning them until the skins have blistered and blackened all over. A wood fire or a sač does it best, but a grill will manage.
2. Put them into a covered bowl or a closed bag at once and leave them twenty minutes. The trapped steam lifts the skins.
3. Peel everything. Pull the stalks and seeds out of the peppers and scoop the aubergine flesh away from its skin, leaving the bitter charred bits behind.
4. Set the flesh in a colander over a bowl and let it drain for at least half an hour, pressing lightly now and then. Skip this and the spread is watery and will not hold on bread.
5. Chop the drained flesh on a board with a heavy knife until it is coarse but even. A food processor turns it to purée in seconds and loses the very texture the dish is known for.
6. Pound the garlic with the salt to a paste, then work in the walnuts until they are broken but still gritty.
7. Combine the vegetables, garlic and walnuts in a bowl and beat in the oil a little at a time, as though making mayonnaise, until the mixture turns glossy and thick.
8. Stir in the vinegar, mustard, sugar and a good grind of pepper. Taste and adjust — it should be sharp enough to make you want bread.
9. Chill for an hour before serving and scatter with parsley. Some households crumble sirenje over the top, though on a fast day it is left off.