Adventure

Travel

IN FRONT OF THE SARCOPHAGUS OF ALEANDER THE GREAT IN ISTANBUL

The journey to Istanbul, which was sponsored by Steve Pliakes. Thus, when we started from Macedonia early in the morning during the summer when we reached the airport “Alexander the Great” on route from Skopje to Istanbul. Takeoff from Skopje was comfortable and after about an hour we arrived in Istanbul.

Istanbul is one of the oldest cities in the world. Divine glory has been with it from the moment when the Roman emperor Constantine decided to move the capital from Rome to Byzantium, as Istanbul was then called. Today it is a city with numerous heritage of the eternal cultural and historical past, with monuments from the Eastern Roman Empire (Byzantine) and Ottoman period. At the same time it is the biggest economic and cultural centre of the culture of present-day Republic of Turkey.

In fact, Istanbul is a crossroads of Asian and European culture, civilization and religion, and it represents a corridor from the north to the south and from the east to the west. Turkish researchers claim that even its constant residents are not fully familiar with all of its beauties. According to official documents, approximately 10 million people live in Istanbul. In addition to this, the city is visited by thousands of travelers and tourists every day.

The Macedonians have always called it Tsarigrad, or Stanbol. The Emperor Constantine declared it the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire in 330AD and hence it got the name Constantinopolis, after the ruler. However on May 29, 1453 it was conquered by the Turkish Sultan Mehmed II after which the city was named Istanbul.

Stanbul is not only the oldest part of the city, but it is also the richest with cultural and historical monuments. Hence, it is the most important tourist quarter of Istanbul, and a great challenge for the numerous visitors to this metropolis. Some of its historical artistic monuments have been damaged or destroyed by time; some suffered natural catastrophes, mostly earthquakes and fires.

In Istanbul there are more than 50 king’s palaces, more than 1,500 mosques, approximately 100 churches, numerous cultural and historical monuments, 10 universities… The most famous among the cultural and historical monuments is the Topkapi Palace with its magnificent king’s chambers and harems. At the museum of “Topkapi” we also saw the special plates which change their color at the contact with poison. They were intended for kings only. We were also astounded by the diamond known as “Kashichki elmaz” and by the dagger decorated with diamonds and other objects of priceless value.

Steve and myself the main purpose of our trip was the visit to the sarcophagus of Alexander of Macedon. This huge, and in many ways characteristic historical exhibit, has been the biggest attraction for visitors who come to the Archeological Museum of Istanbul ever since it was first discovered in 1887. Even though the sarcophagus is named after Alexander of Macedon, it does not belong to him, but most probably to King Abdolonumis, who was the last King of Sidon (Saida) in present-day Lebanon, a city which at that time was a part of the Ottoman Empire.

The sarcophagus is named after Alexander of Macedon as a result of the hundreds of engraved figures which symbolize the conquests of Alexander of Macedon. At the same time, because of the large decoration on the relief devoted to the great warrior, the sarcophagus was named not after the ruler, but after Alexander of Macedon.

According to the written documents the twenty-two sarcophagi discovered in 1887 at Sidon represent the biggest discovery in classical archaeology. Among them, by all means, the sarcophagus of Alexander of Macedon deserves special attention, found by a villager from Sidon who was working on the field and discovered this important monument.

The realization of the sarcophagus of Alexander of Macedon was conducted by the Bey Osman Hambdi, who was director of the Osmanli Museum at that time. We remained in front of the sarcophagus fo Alexander of Macedon for quite a long time. We admired, analyzed, wondered, and remembered the great accomplishments of Alexander of Macedon, who together with this army from Macedonia reached as far as the Indus River.

Filled with admiration and strong feelings towards the past of the Macedonian people, we left the museum with the sarcophagus of Alexander of Macedon and set out towards “St. Sophia” (Hagia Sophia).

This monument dominates over Istanbul as if built to be seen and felt from all parts of the city. It is difficult for the visitor, on the basis of its present appearance, to discover the varying fate of this building. Thus, written documents claim that for 150 years St. Sophia was appreciated as a wonder of the world impressing everyone because it is a monument of the tremendous culture of mankind, as has never again been built. The changing fate of St. Sophia, from the Christian church of all churches, to the Islamic mosque, and finally to today - a museum, has left traces everywhere. Only the magnificent cupola, whose dome stretches 56 meters above the nave of the church, has not lost any of its priceless value and beauty. It served as a model to many eastern mosques. King Constantine the Great first built a church in the place of today’s St. Sophia, when he proclaimed Byzantium, under the name of Constantinopolis, as capital of the Eastern Roman Empire, and called this church “Great Church”.

When it was completed St. Sophia became the most important temple of Christianity. It remained so until the Turks conquered Constantinopolis in 1453, bearing the name of Istanbul since then. The church was turned into a mosque, and Kemal Ataturk declared St. Sophia a museum.

In addition to the legendary St. Sophia we also visited the Horse Square which is part of the Byzantine hippodrome with three magnificent monuments: the Theodoesius obelisk, the Snake column, and Constantine’s column.

“Sultan Ahmet”, or Blue Mosque, is situated not far from these monuments. We visited it in the afternoon hours, when the number of believers was insignificant. Here we found out that this mosque was built in the period 1609-1616 and represents a masterpiece of Turkish construction. Its interior is of blue and green marble; it has 260 windows, mostly of crystal glass; inside it has a king’s box to which he sultan could come riding a horse. It is one of the biggest and most beautiful mosques in the world, which for a long time had the aim of symbolizing the power and strength of the Turkish sultans.

We visited the St. Stefan church, known as “Iron Church”. We were informed that according to the ancestor’s words about this church, which is under the jurisdiction of the Bulgarian patriarch, but built mainly with the money and donations of the Macedonians from the Kostur region in Macedonia. Its construction began in 1849, when a migrant named Stefan bought a piece of land for the construction of a church where magnificent architectural edifice stands proudly today.

This church was first constructed of wood but was set on fire several times. For this reason, the believers who were mainly Macedonians from Aegean Macedonia, ordered an iron church from Vienna in 1891. This was later transported by hip and constructed in the same place of the previous church. The church was consecrated in 1898 by an exarchate bishop and even today priests from the Bulgarian Orthodox Church exclusively come to satisfy the religious needs of the Macedonians.

We visited the “Iron Church” of St. Stefan in the afternoon, and later bowed at the St. George church, situated within the complex of the Universal (Vselenska) Patriarch. Here we were also informed that approximately 1,500 Orthodox Christians, amongst whom mostly Macedonians and Greeks, visit this picturesque church with numerous significant icons and ornaments.

That is the Istanbul Bosphorus which I visited with Steve Pliakes where we spent memorable moments that display the existence of Macedonia and the Macedonian people as a special place in the history of modern Turkey…. S.N. Katin

IN EPHESUS AND IN THE HOUSE OF THE HOLY MOTHER OF GOD

It was the morning of a warm and pleasant day when the Sun had just risen over the Asian part of Istanbul, and the plane had taken off for the East, towards Izmir. Steve Pliakes and I continued our flight on the iron bird (“Boeing 747”) of Turkish Airlines. In less than an hour we were in the three-and-a-half million city of Izmir. This metropolis is situated in the bay that bears its name and spans over its lowlands and the surrounding hills.

It appears as though the regions of Dolna Reka, Veles and other regions of Macedonia have moved to Izmir and its surroundings. There are large numbers of these Turkish citizens from Macedonia, amongst which the greatest in number are the Macedonian Muslims. There are more of them in Turkey than there are in Macedonia. This is what we were informed, because according to some unofficial statistics, there are from 300 to 500 thousand Turkish citizens from Macedonia living only in Izmir and the surrounding cities. There are people from Vranovtsi and Orizari, near Veles, from Skudrinye, from Zhupa and Debar, from near Pehchevo, Delchevo, Shtip, and other places in Macedonia.

They all have a good life in democratic Turkey, which has accepted them as honest, kind, and good-hearted people. Many of them have become famous and respected businessmen, intellectuals, doctors, shop owners, and loyal citizens of their second fatherland, Turkey. At the same time, these Turkish citizens from Macedonia love and respect Turkey, but their grandfathers’ land, Macedonia, too, which they carry in their hearts and in their souls.

Steve Pliakes was excited to visit the city of Selchuk and the ancient city of Ephesus. In Selchuk we visited the City Museum where many exhibits from Ephesus and other localities in Anadolia and the coast region are displayed. The museum is an unavoidable stop for visitors to this part of Turkey.

We continued towards the well-known ancient treasury of Ephesus, situated less than 200 kilometres south of Izmir, 20 kilometres north of the summer resort, Kushadasi. Ephesus, the famous city of the past and the present, is situated at the foot of Mt. Bilbil, Koressos, where the Kaister river enters the Aegean Sea, and on the lowland region near the sea.

This significant ancient city is first mentioned in the middle of the 7th century BC. Ever since its foundation it has played an important role in the Anadolian region. Because of this, it was often attacked and conquered. It was under Persian and Spartan rule. In 334 Alexander of Macedon conquered the city and the strategic military area surrounding the city of Ephesus. Ephesus was under authority of the Roman Empire and was a major city of the Asian province at the time.

During our visit to Ephesus we saw numerous structures and objects from the long history of this significant ancient locality. We visited the remains of the Temple of Artemis, Trayan’s Fountain, the Marble Road, the Stadium, and other structures. However, the visitor is especially impressed by the great theatre, it being an exceptional experience. It is situated in a recess of the western side of the hill. Its size, expanse and magnificence gives one the feeling, and takes him in his thoughts many centuries far from the present. We were told here that in recent years Luciano Pavarotti, Julio Iglesias, and many other world-famous artists presented their artistic qualities there before several thousand guests at this theatre.

Our visit to the house of the Holy Mother of God aroused in us a special feeling of excitement, which transformed into peace. It feels as though one is somewhere in Macedonia, in one of the monasteries of the Macedonian Orthodox Church. The picturesque area where the house of the Holy Mother of God was built reminds the visitor of the areas taken as models for the construction of Christian monasteries around the world. And here, according to the customs, after bowing in the church, leaving the temple and washing with the holy water, according to customs and beliefs, the visitor becomes an “ad`ija” (pilgrim.). Thus, Steve Pliakes and I became pilgrims.

The area attracts with its beauty and scenery, while the church represents a place where thousands of Christians and Muslims come to bow and to pray. It appears that this year the church will be most visited on 15 August, when the largest gathering to celebrate the third millennium of Christianity will be held. On this occasion thousands of believers, Christians, Muslims, and others are expected to visit the house of the Holy Mother of God.

According to written documents we know that St. John brought the Holy Mother of God to Ephesus during the fourth or fifth year, immediately after the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. The house on Mt. Bilbil, planned and constructed by St. John, is at 420m above sea level.

According to the tales the house was discovered by the German nun, Anna Katerina Emerich, who devoted her entire life to God. She was paralised and made spiritual connection with the Holy Mother of God. The documents claim that, while in a trance, she had a vision that the Holy Mother of God was buried somewhere near the church. This was confirmed by some Lazarian priests, who in 1891 discovered the location of the house where the Holy Mother of God spent the last days of her life. Thus, it was discovered that the cross-shaped building and dome were ruined, but were later restored.

During our visit to the house of the Holy Mother of God we were familiarised with many details relating to the discovery of the temple, as well as the visits and respect of both Christians and Muslims towards this spiritual centre. The large statue in the garden of the church giving one the feeling that the Holy Mother of God welcomes guests and those of good intent with widespread arms, leaves one with a special impression. On the other hand, the statue of the Holy Mother of God found in the apse was erected about a hundred years ago and represents a magnificent structure before which everyone bows and pays respect to the Mother of Jesus Christ.

During the evening hours we returned to Izmir where we stayed at the exclusive hotel of “Ephesus” situated in the centre of the city and is of a high category. The city, though, whose Turkish name is Izmir, is also known by the name of Smirna. It is a major seaport in Asia Minor, on the coast of the Aegean Sea, and is the third largest city in Turkey. Smirna is an old Ionic settlement which was renewed in the 4th century BC. During the Roman Empire and Byzantium, Izmir was one of the largest cities in Asia Minor. Its history claims that the city had been under the rule of the Tatars, who devastated it. Later it was under the rule of the Greeks, who built it and turned into Greek, and in 1922 it was freed by the Turks, headed by Kemal Ataturk. This significant seaport and strategic land location has been an important NATO base since 1952.

This visit to the metropolis of Izmir and the House of the Holy Mother of God will remain for us forever.

VISITING SITES OF ANCIENT LOCATIONS IN MACEDONIA

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It was afternoon in July when Steve Pliakes arrived at the airport “Alexander the Great” in Skopje. The airport was very busy, it looked like a beehive, which was usual for that period of the year, when thousands of travelers arrive and depart from Macedonia. It is a period when one may meet numerous known and unknown Macedonian emigrants from the overseas countries, as well as from the European Union and other countries worldwide.

We saw the plane when it landed at the runway and we felt a relief when our guest safely landed on the Macedonian land which he respects, and as a Canadian Macedonian he always expresses his love for the country of his ancestors. Some 15 minutes after the plane landed from Vienna, our guest Steve Pliakes appeared leaving customs.

We welcomed him emphasizing that Macedonia is eager to receive a guest such as Steve Pliakes who bears Macedonia in his heart and soul and we headed to Skopje, to our home located in the centre of the capital of Macedonia. We welcomed him once again wishing him pleasant stay in Macedonia and toasted with a tasteful Tikvesh yellow rakija, and luscious Macedonian specialties.

Next morning we went to the Archbishopric of the Macedonian Orthodox Church where we had a scheduled meeting with the Metropolitan of Polog and Kumanovo Eparchy, H.E. Cyril, who was a friend of Steve Pliakes; they were friends for a long time and used to meet both on the North American continent and in Macedonia. The meeting was in Christian manner, friendly, warm and very important for Steve, who on that occasion handed to the Bishop Cyril the presents from his family, and gave him many regards from the Board of the Macedonian Orthodox Church “St. Clement of Ohrid” and from the numerous mutual friends and distinguished Macedonian emigrants who live in Canada.

At the meeting with the first bishop of the American-Canadian Macedonian Orthodox Eparchy H.E. Cyril, they discussed many issues of essential importance for the Macedonian Orthodox Churches in Canada and USA, the role and progress of the Macedonian communities in the Diaspora. The meeting ended with an invitation by the bishop to visit the Leshok monastery, which invitation was accepted and realized during Steve’s stay in Macedonia. Their conversation lasted for few hours, and the guest from Canada was very satisfied with the meeting and full of beautiful memories.

At the afternoon we went for a walk in Skopje to see some newly built buildings and historical and cultural monuments which Steve Pliakes saw for the first time. We paid special attention to the monument of Alexander the Great or, as officially named “The Statue of the Warrior”. Steve was delighted from the idea of erecting such a monumental statue in the capital of the Republic of Macedonia. The monument dedicated to Alexander the Great inspired us to talk about the ancient Macedonia, about Philip and Alexander. We also discussed the old flag with the Sun of Kutlesh (Palatica), as well as about the new flag of the Republic of Macedonia, which according some historians and journalists originates from the period of Jesus Christ. On that occasion Steve Pliakes said that he respected the new flag, but we must not forget that the flag with the Sun of Kutlesh is as favored as the new one among the Macedonians living in the Diaspora, who display both flags with great love. We also talked about many issues related to the ancient period of Macedonia, the connection of the Macedonians from Canada with these problems, as well as about his trip to Pakistan.

Next morning, accompanied by the previous minister of emigration with the Government of the Republic of Macedonia Mr. Martin Trenevski we left Skopje and went to Veles where Steve wanted to visit the seat of the Eparchy of Povardarie and to get informed on the actual issues. After we walked through the center of the native town of the great Macedonian poet Kocho Racin, we passed behind the Eparchy building and headed toward Babuna River. Then we took the highway to Gradsko and Stobi.

In Stobi we were welcomed by a nice girl who worked at the archeological location. We stayed there more than an hour, walking around and listening to the facts about this Roman city. We were informed that Stobi was an ancient city which with its urban part is spread over three terraces which are surrounded by walls and descending towards Black River (Crna Reka), more precisely at the mouth between Black River and Vardar River.

We were informed that the main roads run nearby the archeological location Stobi which connected the regions of Danube River with the Mediterranean countries since the pre-historical period. The cultural influences on the Balkans Peninsula flew from south to north and vice versa along this main road. On the other hand, Crna Reka represented a natural connection of the central regions of Macedonia to the Aegean Sea. Therefore, the city of Stobi had has very important strategic, military, and trading position in the ancient period.

According to some old written sources about Stobi the victory of Philip V, the King of Macedonia over the Dardanians in 197 BC was mentioned. The research conducted under the several constructions in the central area of the later city discovered layers from the 3rd and 2nd Centuries BC and bronze objects from the classical and archaic period, as well as particular ceramics objects from the Neolith period which originate from that period of freedom of Macedonia.

It is assumed that the city was established in 359 BC. In 168 BC, after the victory of the Romans over the King Perseus, Macedonia was divided in four regions. At that point Stobi became a trade centre of the third region. In 148 BC Macedonia became a Roman province.

During the Roman period Stobi was an important and influential city. It was Episcopal center since 325. During the 4th – 5th century a number of churches were built which were impressive by their size and internal decoration with rich architectural ornaments, mosaics, fresco paintings and structure, of which the most were found during the excavation.

It is interesting to mention that in Stobi there was also a Jewish Community dating from 3th century and a synagogue which was destroyed at the end of the 4th century and over it early Christian basilica was erected. In the excavated part of Stobi so far a number of architectural object has been discovered and studied, that is, profane and sacral constructions with a public function, private houses, baths, thermals, a theater, a part of the city walls, streets, the Forum and the main entrance to the city.

We left Stobi and continued our journey to Drenovo Canyone and over the bridge nearby Drenovo River we climbed on the old path made of cobbled pavement. Regretfully, this location is still not explored, but we were very curious. That is why we climbed to an old quarry which is assumed to date from the period of Philip and Alexander the Great and it was very important in that period, because beautiful stone figures have been carved there. Then we climbed to the narrow area between the two hills where according to some legends, there was a big gate behind which another world was beginning. In that area we found stony pillars which were precisely carved and fundaments for some statues or monuments. We had a hunch that there was an amphitheatre on that space some time ago. The place is oriented toward south and it has semicircular shape with a wide view toward the southern side. We climbed over the hill and reached a plain with steep inclination toward the canyon. From there we could see large part of Drenovo and Tikvesh fields. A view which catches and relaxes one’s eyes.

We left the location nearby Drenovo Canyon and continued our trip to Prilep, and from there, toward a tomb in Staro Bonche. This archeological location is called Pavle Chuka and is placed between the villages of Podmol and Bonche. We arrived at this location at noon; therefore we had problems during climbing to the tomb and later to the plateau.

However, the tomb is of Macedonian type which by its architectural conception is unique. It is composed of open dromos carved in a rock which descends to the tomb like a ramp; then, there is arched part of the dromos with a length of 11 meters and height of 3 meters. At the beginning of the arched dromos on its both sides there is a ring-shaped wall which surrounds the entire tomb. This kind of arcade of the Macedonian tombs is used since the period of rule of Philip and Alexander III the Great.

We left Bonche and headed to the ancient city Stibera – the centre of the Macedonian kings who have waged the battles against Illyrians. Stibera is located along the Black River (Erigon) in the immediate vicinity of the village of Chepigovo near Prilep. It is still not established when Stibera was built, but it is assumed that it was built in the time of Philip II. Stibera is a city in which the archeological excavations discovered most ancient sculptures which were completely preserved.

Stibera is one of the largest ancient cities in Macedonia and at the same time, one of the most attractive ancient urban settlements. The archeological research conducted in this location has discovered a whole treasury of movable archeological material, ceramic bowls, coins, marble monuments, boards with inscription and many marble plastics, more than 30 statues and busts of distinguished citizens of that time. It witnesses that this excavations have discovered a part of a city wall, because the barbarian devastations of the peripheral parts of the Roman Empire toward the end of the 3rd century led to the mass detriment of many cities, among which the city of Stibera as well.

From Stibera we went back to Prilep where our friend Martin Trenevski stayed, and together with Steve we continued our trip to Bitola. There, in the evening in the hotel “Epinal” where we were accommodated, we met several representatives of “Vinozito” from Lerin. The meeting lasted all night long. We discussed about the presence and the future of the Macedonians in the Aegean part of Macedonia and their associations.

The next day we went sightseeing Bitola, particularly its central part and then we continued to Heraclea Lyncestis– an urban settlement from ancient Macedonian period up to the Middle Age. According to the information we provided while we were sitting in the amphitheater, it was founded in the middle of 4th century BC by the king Philip II of Macedonia, in order to be an important strategic point. It is located in the southern periphery of the city of Bitola, in the foot of Baba Mountain. It is named after Heracles, the mythic hero and the founding father of the Macedonian royal dynasty Argeadi, while the epithet Lyncestis, meaning “Lyncestis’s” comes from the name of the region of Linkestida where the city was located and where the ancient Macedonian tribe Lyncestides lived. Heraclea is located on a fertile plain, from the northern side it is protected by Baba Mountain, that is, Tumbe Kafe hill and Siva Voda River on south. Heraclea has endured and developed in an important crossroad on the Via Ignatia road.

We were also informed that according to the written sources, after he had conquered Linkestida, Philip II had erected a fortress from which he could control a part of his kingdom. There is also data that at the beginning of the 2nd century BC, during the wars with the Romans, the Macedonian king Philip V had built several fortresses in the bordering regions in order to secure the border of the kingdom. The city has experienced the highest degree of civilization development in the time of Roman governance in the first centuries of the new era when it was granted a status of a colony. In that period Heraclea became a strong economic and political centre with its permanent Roman regent and its Roman army. All of that reflected on the image of the city in a manner that the Roman architecture was mostly represented, although the traditional influences and the historical heritage were still characteristic for the city.

From Heraklea we went to the border crossing Medzitlija in order to continue our journey to Lerin, Zeleniche, and the native place of Steve Pliakes and from there to Kostur where we planned to visit some locations of the ancient Macedonian kingdom.

We quickly passed the border of the Republic of Macedonia and headed to the border to Aegean Macedonia. There we gave our Canadian passports but we were told to wait. We were waiting for a long time so we asked about the reason why we were waiting so long. But we did not get any answer because the officers were checking our Canadian travelling documents. After approximately 40 minutes we were told that the author of this book was allowed to enter Greece, but Steve Pliakes was not. The Greek officers forbade him to enter his native land. After long discussions we asked them to explain us the reasons why Steve was forbidden in writing. The officers did it and in a rude manner told us to get back.

We went toward the border crossing to Republic of Macedonia, but disappointed and degradated by the fact that Greece did not respect the fundamental human rights. But we were dissatisfied at most that this state being a member of the European Union does not recognize Canadian documents. That is why we decided to send the document which forbade Steve Pliakes to enter Greece to the Canadian Embassy and the Canadian- Macedonian Committee of Human Rights. Then, without saying a word, we went to Ohrid.

ON THE GRAVE OF YANE SANDANSKI

When Steve Pliakes arrived in Skopje, he expressed his wish to visit Pirin Macedonia, because he decided to donate money to OMO “Ilinden” in Sandanski. But, most of all, he wanted to visit the grave of Yane Sandanski, “the czar of Pirin”.

The historical materials referring to that part of Bulgaria, among others, say that Pirin Macedonia is a part of the ethnic territory of Macedonia, which part after the 1913 “Peace” Treaty of Bucharest was given to Bulgaria. In the ancient time, Pirin Macedonia initially was a part of Pannonia and Trakia, and later became a part of the Ancient Macedonian Empire.

However, toward the end of XIX century the territory of Pirin was ruled by the great Macedonian revolutionary Yane Sandanski and his company, who was a close associate of Goce Delchev and the greatest warrior against the vrhovism. He is known under his nickname “Pirin Czar” who had committed the famous kidnapping of the Protestant missionary Miss Stone.

After the World War I, in the period of governance of Georgi Dimitrov, the Macedonians from Pirin Macedonia got total cultural autonomy which was to lapse into legal territorial autonomy and to unite Pirin Macedonia with the People’s Republic of Macedonia at that time as its mainstream state within the Balkans Federation.

It is impossible to calculate the exact number of the ethnic Macedonians in Bulgaria especially due to the fact that various sources cite controversial data. Nonetheless, there is a common consent that a large number (over two millions, including those originating from mixed marriages) of the citizens of the Republic of Bulgaria are ancestors of immigrants from Macedonia who, being emigrants or refugees, had moved to Bulgaria.

According to the census of population as of December 1946, in the People’s Republic of Bulgaria out of the total number of 252,908 inhabitants of Pirin Macedonia, 160,541, that is 70% declared themselves as ethnic Macedonians. These presented facts acknowledge the truth about the Macedonians in Bulgaria, which Bulgaria skillfully tries to manipulate. Regretfully, and for the shame on principles of democracy, according to 2011 Census of population in the Republic of Bulgaria, the number of Macedonians who live there is only 1,654 of which 561 are inhabited in the district of Blagoevgrad, and the number of Macedonians who speak their mother’s Macedonian language is 1,163, while 1,091 are citizens of the Republic of Macedonia who “live” in Bulgaria.

In addition, it should be emphasized that in 1947 were established the printed media “Pirin Newspaper” and the printing house “Macedonian Book”. That was a part of the realized promises regarding the rights of the Macedonians in Bulgaria which would invigorate the Macedonian language and culture. The media were cancelled and closed in 1958 due to political calculations and the change of power.

However, in 1990 a newspaper named “People’s Will” for the Macedonian minority in Bulgaria was established. The newspaper was edited and printed in Upper Dzumaja, now Blagoevgrad. There was also established the United Macedonian Organization “Ilinden” – Pirin, a party for economic development and integration of the population in the Republic of Bulgaria. It is a democratic party which protects the minority rights and pledge for decentralization of the country. It is the only party which is working toward the rights of the Macedonian minority in Bulgaria. The party mainly operates in south-western region of the country, also known as Pirin Macedonia. It was registered as a political party in 1999 and it participated in the local elections. However, on February 29, 2000 the Constitutional Court of Bulgaria pronounced that the party was unconstitutional, violating the right of freedom of association and the right of non- discrimination.

Regretfully, the Bulgarian government refuses to recognize the existence of the Macedonian minority in Pirin Macedonia, disregarding that after the World War II there were Macedonian schools, bookshops, newspapers in the Pirin part of Macedonia. Even today the Bulgarian government continues to violate the fundamental human rights. The members and followers both of OMO “Ilinden” – PIRIN, a political party and organization for human rights, and OMO “Ilinden”, an organization for human and minority rights are tortured, mistreated, beaten, punished and even arrested, just for declaring their Macedonian identity.

However, the fact is that in Pirin Macedonia during the cultural autonomy there were 93 teachers working with more than 35,000 Macedonian children who have learned the Macedonian literary language and developed their cultural and national traditions. At that time in the Pirin part of Macedonia there were libraries full of books written by Macedonian, Bulgarian and world authors. The Macedonian people in that period have experienced the magic of the written word in its mother’s Macedonian language. In those days there was also a Macedonian theatre in this part of Bulgaria, which supported the cultural exaltation of the Macedonian and which helped them to forget the dark fascist years of physical and spiritual pain.

Nonetheless, after the resolution of the Inform bureau the Bulgarian policy regarding the former Yugoslavia, and consequently regarding the Macedonian issue experienced huge downturn. The schools and other institutions in Macedonian language were terminated and the teachers and other cultural workers were expelled in the People’s Republic of Macedonia. Then, the period of falsifying of everything which was Macedonian followed. Regretfully, obstructions and denial are still performed over the Macedonian population. It remains to see whether the new democratic processes which are in place on the Balkans will change that situation. The European vision has already shown its interest about the existence of the Macedonians in Bulgaria, about the execution of the decisions on the respecting the human rights and freedoms. Therefore, the Macedonians in the Pirin Macedonia and in the entire Bulgaria, which is a member of the European Union, should not be given other names but Macedonians.

The cause for the persisting denial of the Macedonians in Bulgaria comes from the Bulgarian nationalist dogma that which says that there are no, there cannot be and should not be Macedonians. But, the truth is different not only according to the census, but also according to the real existence of the Macedonian people.

That is why the businessman Steve Pliakes and I wanted to get convinced, to confirm that and to get informed on the truth about the Pirin Macedonia. Because of that, one August morning we went to Upper Dzumaja, now Blagoevgrad. In the distance we could see Pirin, the most beautiful and highest Mountain in Macedonia. It seemed to us that we could touch with our hands the glorious mountain of Yane Sandanski which is connected with numerous legends of the Macedonians from that area.

We continued our journey to the city of Sandanski (former Sveti Vrach) or the “Pirin Beauty” as it was often called. From the distance we could see the residential buildings located at one height, which number was increasing as we approached. We entered Sandanski which population is about 30,000 inhabitants and we drove along the picturesque boulevard with evergreen trees in the midst which beautify the view and make the city a pleasant corner for its visitors. We saw the monument of Spartacus. As one Macedonian from OMO “Ilinden” whom we met in the centre of the city told us, according to a German scientist, the Valley of Struma River, between Pirin and Maleshevo Mountains is the native place of this leader of the slaves, a man about who many legends are written.

We visited one of the restaurants located on the square and had a pleasant time with several members of OMO “Ilinden”. Later, we also visited the premises of OMO “Ilinden” which were regretfully in a basement. On that occasion our guest from Canada, the humanist Steve Pliakes donated money for the organization and the members of OMO “Ilinden” were very grateful to him.

There was an old plane near the restaurant which reminded us of the plane in Ohrid. The city of Sandanski is pretty neat, and many new houses are built. Huge wealth for Sandanski is the springs of mineral water which flow from the beginning of time. There are many of those springs: some of them are in the City Park and others are on the right bank of the river Sandbanks Beatrice, which temperature reaches above 80oS and they also contain healing mud. The city of Sandanski with its surrounding is one of the warmest and most sunny places in Pirin Macedonia. The snow here is very rare and there is almost no fog. Because of those favorable climate conditions and natural spas, the people who suffer from chronic and bronchial diseases visit this place.

We left Sandanski in the afternoon and headed to south, that is, to Melnik which the visitors often call “legend city”, “city of vine”, “and city of the past”. But, in fact, it is the smallest city in Pirin Macedonia and even on the Balkans, if not in Europe, as well. There are hardly 400-500 inhabitants living there. However, Melnik attracts the visitors with its colorful appearance and its architectural deeds. It is located between the sandy pyramids on both side of Melnik and Rozhen Rivers and it represents a city – museum, because each house is a museum of its own; the monastery “St Virgin Mary” and the church “St. Nicholas” which are the witnesses of the rich church life in this area are also preserved and in good condition.

Melnik has very interesting past. Since the period of the King Samoil, it was very important military center and later it became an attractive place because the continental climate becomes mountainous, and to become upper toward the Pirin Mountain an alpine climate. In the previous century, Melnik was very important trading centre and a city of prestige among the traders who were opened the wide perspectives from there. That is the reason why in this city, besides Macedonians – from Pirin, a great number of Hellenics (Greeks), Turks, Armenians, Vlachs and others, which number at the end of the 19th century has reached 20,000 have moved in. In that period the city experienced a great up bring and growth in the field of trade; caravans of horses and camels, loaded with barrels and wineskins full of Melnik vine were daily expedited all over the world. Those caravans went to Egypt, to the south, to Paris and Madrid on the west and to Budim and Pesta to the north.

In Melnik we took a break in the restaurant under the big plate which is located in the centre of Melnik River, from where one can see a part of the city in which many old houses of various architecture are renovated and in which a new life begins. After the brief nap, we passed by the monument of Yane Sandanski which is placed in the park bellow the road, in the immediate vicinity of the auto camp crowded by many tourists. Then, we went to the village of Rozhen, which is approximately 10 kilometers away from Melnik.

However, Rozhen is a small village located on the both banks of Rozhen River, which is populated by only 20 families. The village is connected by an asphalt road, and the social life takes place in front of the restaurant, at the large parking place. From that spot you can reach Rozhen monastery using the asphalt road which runs up like a serpentine to the hill where the monastery and the grave of Yane Sandanski are located. First we visited the monastery which dated from 1220, over which foundation the church “Nativity of the Virgin Mary” is built.

The monastery is surrounded from each side by high monastery dormitories which terraces attract every visitor, and it can be entered only from the eastern side through the massive oak door. The church has interesting frescoes and icons, and the most valuable is the iconostasis made by the hands of the Macedonian masters of Debar School, who besides in this monastery have left many eternal and precious woodcarving pieces throughout Macedonia.

At a distance of about hundred meters from the monastery toward East there is the church “Sts. Cyril and Methodij” in front of which altar is placed the grave of Yane Sandanski. We made a bow and showed our respect to the Macedonian legendary voivod, which was often called the “Pirin Czar”. Some people told us that in the past the grave of Sandanski was several kilometers away from the church “Nativity of Virgin Mary”. There is inscription on the grave saying that Yane had fought for the human rights and freedoms of Macedonia, and particularly of the Macedonian people in the Pirin part of Macedonia. However, we got convinced that on the present tombstone of the “Pirin Tsar” Yane Sandanski there is the following inscription:

"To live means to fight - The slave for freedom, and the free For perfection“. Yane Sandanski 1872-1915

Steve Pliakes, whose great desire was to see the grave, was walking around the monument of Yane, occupied with his thoughts. Then we made a bow in front of the great “Pirin Tsar” once again and without saying a word we left the grave of the voivod. We remained silent when we headed to Petrich, the southernmost city in this Macedonian region.

We drove along the main street which divides Petrich into two parts and watched and admired this beautiful Macedonian city which has left a great impression to the travel author Evlia Chelebija from XVII century with its high chestnut, maple, oak and beech trees.

About 15 kilometers west of Petrich, in the immediate vicinity of Strumeshnica, which was named after the river, the town of Kluch is located.

There, on the right bank of the river, next to the road, were found remainders of a fortress. Exactly at that place in 1014 was waged the most horrible and murderous battle between the Macedonian King Samoil, who has set the Macedonian seed and established the Ohrid Archbishopric, and the Byzantine king the Macedonian Basil the Second. The Army of Basil II in retaliation had blinded 99 men in each group of Samoil’s army and left one man in each group with one eye so that they could lead their wounded companions to their king in Prespa and Ohrid. When Samoil saw his defeated army, he had a heart stroke and died.

LILLY & STEVE IN MALA PRESPA

A couple of years ago Steve Pliakes and his wife Lilly decided to visit Macedonia. They travelled many hours from Toronto to Vienna, and then to Athens, from Athens to Solun (Thessalonica) and finally to their native places Zeleniche and Zhelevo. Later they visited Lerin, in the Aegean part of Macedonia.

The author of this book waited for them at the border crossing Medzitlija nearby Bitola. Their meeting was cordial and pleasant like a meeting of long-year family friends. We immediately left for Skopje where we stayed several days. During their stay, Steve and Lilly had many meetings with their friends from Macedonia; most of them have visited Canada and been guest in the house of Pliakes family.

During the stay in Skopje, Steve Pliakes had pleasant memories of his meeting with the Prime minister of the Republic of Macedonia, H.E. Nikola Gruevski, which took place in the evening in the Government building. They talked about many issues and problems related to the recognition of Republic of Macedonia under its constitutional name, about the election of Members of Parliament from the Macedonians in the Diaspora, as well as about many other issues of interest for the future of Macedonia and Macedonian people.

The next day Steve had a meeting with the Head of the Macedonian Orthodox Church H.B. Stefan. On that occasion they talked and presented their positions regarding the conditions, opportunities and problems of the church life in the North American continent. Later, Steve met the former ambassadors Denko Malevski, Sashko Nasev and Ljuben Tevdovski, Todor Petrov, the President of the World Macedonian Congress, Joe Petreski of the House of immigrants from Macedonia, as well as other persons. He and Lilly visited the Foster Home “11 Oktomvri” in Skopje, where they donated 2,500 Canadian dollars. Steve and Lilly also organized a dinner for all athletes who competed in the Olympic Games and the team which accompanied the Macedonian competitors in the Olympic Games in Beijing, where they were one of the main sponsors. In Beijing Steve was honored to carry the Macedonian state flag on behalf of the Macedonian athletes and he was the happiest Macedonian in China.

After the stay in Skopje Steve, Lilly, my wife Nada and I left for Ohrid. There we visited the churches of “St. Sofia”, “St. Clement of Ohrid” and “St. Panteleimon” in Plaoshnik, as well as the Samoil Fortress where the guest were informed about the historical development of Ohrid considered to be the second Jerusalem for the Orthodoxy. We also visited the monastery “St. Naum of Ohrid” where we spent a pleasant time by the wells.

Next day we left for Ljubojno, in Prespa, where we stayed several days. There we visited the graves of my parents who were friends of Steve and Lilly in Toronto, as well as the graves of my grandfather Alekso who was fortune seeker entire 40 years in Detroit, as well as my grandmother Kata, after whom I have my nickname, that is my surname – Katin. Then we visited the villages of Brajchino, Nakolec and Lower Dupeni in order to allow our guests to see the “end of the world” at the borderline nearby Markova Noga.

Next day, early in the morning we left Ljubojno and directed to Oteshevo, and then we headed to Mala Prespa. We passed the Macedonian – Albanian borderline at the border crossing Stenje. We headed to our destination – Pustec which is located in Mala Prespa, or Lower Prespa, as the inhabitants of Prespa call this Macedonian area along the south-western Coast of Prespa Lake. The entire area consists of approximately ten villages which are organized in the Municipality of Pustec. And, Pustec is the largest settlement in Mala Prespa, and a seat of the municipality as well, which mayor and all members of the Municipal Council are ethnical Macedonians.

However, the part of Macedonia known as Mala Prespa, or Lower Prespa was given to Albania after the signing of the “Peace” Treaty of Versailles in 1919.This unjust treaty completed the division of the ethnic Macedonia between the newly established states: Serbia, Greece, Bulgaria and Albania, followed by the beginning of the era of denationalization, forced assimilation and emigration of the Macedonian people from their homes.

The destiny of the Macedonian people until the World War II was basically the same in all parts of the divided and enslaved Macedonia. The Macedonian people was and still is (in Bulgaria and Elada – Greece) denied the fundamental human rights, assimilated, divided and expelled, but also spiritually and physically assimilated. Because of these reasons in some areas of ethnic Macedonia major migration and ethnic changes occurred which have had catastrophic consequences for the Macedonian population.

After the World War I and the liberation of a part of ethnic Macedonia, it was taken a special care of the Macedonians who lived in the neighboring countries regarding their education on their mother’s Macedonian language. It was especially actual in the period from 1945 to 1948 when Albania asked the previous Yugoslav government to send teachers for Macedonian language in the regions where Macedonian population lived. The teaching staff, first of all, was needed in the villages of Tuminec, Pustec, Lower and Upper Gorica, Globochani, Shulin and Zrnovsko which are located in Mala Prespa, and belong to Korcha region, as well as in the villages of Vrbnik and Cerje in Bilishte area, then in Lin, the region of Pogradec and in other populated settlements.

We arrived in Pustec at noon. We went immediately to the municipal building where the mayor Edmond Temelko and his associates cordially welcomed us. On that occasion Lilly and Steve donated 2,500 Canadian dollars as a support for the Macedonian children in Mala Prespa. We also visited the new church “St. Archangel Michael” when the guests from Canada donated 1,000 dollars for this Macedonian spiritual temple.

During our stay in Pustec we met and talked to a number of Macedonians who were good-hearted and friendly and spoke readily with the guests from Canada. We were informed that according to the available data, the real number of ethnic Macedonians with Islamic religion was over 200,000. Their largest concentration is in the bordering regions of Gora, Golo Brdo and Mala Prespa. There are also many Macedonians who live in Tirana (approximately 20,000), Pogradec, Korcha, Kavaje, Elbasan and other places.

However, we should mention that Albania and Serbia are neighboring countries to the Republic of Macedonia which recognize the status of the Macedonian ethnic minority. Since 1945 there are teaching lessons in Macedonian language in Albania, more precisely in Mala Prespa for the elementary education from 1-5th grade, and the state has published relevant textbooks. Also, there is a library with enormous fund of books in Macedonian language within the school in Pustec; the author of this book has also donated several hundreds of books to the library. In fact, it is the first case of official use of the Macedonian mother’s language in the Republic of Albania.

During our visit we were informed that there were several organizations and active associations and a party of Macedonians in Albania, but the possibilities for political activity were small, because the state did not provide financial support to their organizations. However, the Macedonians in Albania make great efforts for their self-organizing. So, the first periodical journal in Macedonian language “Peace” (“Mir”) was published in 1993, then “Prespa” followed, as well as many electronic portals. There was also radio and TV program in Macedonian language in Korcha.

Unfortunately, the position of the ethnic Macedonians in Albania is far away from the position of the ethnic Albanians in the Republic of Macedonia. While the ethnic Albanians in the Republic of Macedonia are ministers and members of parliament and their large party is in a coalition with the actual government, the Macedonians in Albania still do not have opportunities for real political participation. At this moment, there are no ethnic Macedonian MPs, and the number of Macedonians employed in the institutions of the state and local administration is small, compared to the overpresentation of the Albanians in the administration of the Republic of Macedonia.

Regretfully, during our visit to Mala Prespa, we noticed that it was one of the poorest regions in the Republic of Albania. In this case, the Albanians authorities, as well as the authorities in the Republic of Macedonia seem like they “have forgotten” their obligations and left that people to itself. The population is engaged in fishing, agriculture and cattle breeding, but in very modest conditions and very small scope. After the fall of the previous Stalinist regime and the opening of its borders, most of the inhabitants have reoriented themselves toward trade and seeking fortune in the Republic of Macedonia and Greece, and some of them work in the larger Albanian cities, in the European Union and in the overseas countries; they are especially present in Toronto, where they have established their association.

Pustec is the pivot of Mala Prespa. This beautiful Macedonian village is located along the hill above the Prespa Lake. The houses are built of stone; they are Macedonian-styled, modest, just like in many Prespa and other villages. Its inhabitants speak beautiful Macedonian dialect from Prespa; the students learn their mother’s Macedonian language in all four years, there is an ambulance, agricultural cooperative, cinema, house of culture, several shops, fishermen’s cooperative, there is the gorgeous Macedonian Orthodox Church “St. Archangel Michael” (Sveti Arhangel Mihail) in the centre of this urban village, as well as many other institutions.

But, the most important is that they have genuine Macedonian spirit and faith in the future of the Macedonian nation, of the Macedonian language, and of all which is Macedonian. Pustec is the only Macedonian municipality and one of the biggest settlements in the region of Korcha, as well as the largest Macedonian village in Albania. And there, in Dolna Prespa, people sing songs, laugh, dance, grieve in Macedonian mother’s language.

The Municipality of Pustec is registered in the Registry in Macedonian language as Pustec, and in Albanian language as Likenas. The name of Pustec had been changed in the 1970-es. It was renamed by Hodza Leshi, the secretary of the Communist Party of Albania at that time. However, today all road signs and other public signs are bilingual in the entire Mala Prespa – both in Macedonian and Albanian languages.

It is interesting to mention that the coat of the municipality includes the ancient Macedonian symbol, 16-beam sun of Kutlish (Palatica – Virgina) above which is placed bilingual inscription in Macedonian language Municipality of Pustec, and below is the title in Albanian language. We ended our visit to Mala Prespa with the joint lunch at the restaurant in Zrnovsko where we had Prespa carp and other Prespa specialties.

On that occasion we talked about many issues, problems and future plans for better tomorrow for the Macedonians in Mala Prespa and entire Macedonia. Our host Edmond Temelko showed great respect to Steve and Lilly, his hosts during his stay in Canada.

However, it should be noticed that the Macedonians in Albania successed to register their political party “Macedonian Alliance for European Integration” with lot of difficulties. It was an important event for the Macedonians, because they showed maturity and voted for themselves, for their party, their president, the respected mayor Edmond Temelko and the secretary Vasil Sterjovski. On that occasion they showed the Albanian society that they were also a part of that society and that they would take active participation in the dealing with the unsolved issues of that country.

The party made enormous efforts to develop projects with foreign companies, embassies, as well as with the Republic of Macedonia in order to help the people from Mala Prespa regarding their decent and normal living standard. All the states worldwide know that the Macedonians from Mala Prespa are loyal citizens of Albania; they pay taxes and obey the laws, but they demand better living conditions.

At the local elections in Albania which took place on June 21, 2015 the party “Macedonian Alliance for European Integration” won one mayor seat and nine counselors. On June 21, the Macedonian party won 3,641 voices. Edmond Temelko became a mayor of the Municipality of Pustec for the third time. Based on the 7 counselor’s seats won this party will also have its counselor in Pogradec and Malikj.

It should be emphasized that Edmond Temelko, together with the secretary Vasil Steriovski and other members, supported by the businessman Gjorgija George Atanasovski from USA, are the founders of the party “Macedonian Alliance for European Integration” and tireless fighters for the rights of the Macedonians in Albania and worldwide. They have also close cooperation with the World Macedonian Congress, OMO “Ilinden” – Pirin “Vinozhito” (“Rainbow”) and other Macedonian national organizations and parties both from the Diaspora and the Republic of Macedonia.

Edited with permission from: Steve Pliakes Monograph by Slave Katin