A Dream Come True

Following in the Footsteps of Alexander The Great by Steve Pliakes

After three years of planning, studying and dreaming about the journey, finally the beginning of a dream became a reality. On July 25, 1995, Michael Keathley and myself landed at the airport of a former capital city of Pakistan, Rawalpindi. A light drizzle was falling down; it was about 9:00 A.M. Little did we know that this was the Monsoon season for that part of the world. We felt everything was under control.

We had a prepaid ticket from Pindi to Gilgit, which is a 700 kilometre flight. We took a taxi to the Pakistani Airline office. There we found out to our surprise, all flights to Gilgit or the Chitral Valley were cancelled. We asked if we could board the next day and they replied that we were to be at their office at 11:00 A.M. in the morning and we will see, weather permitting. Disappointed, we asked the driver to take us to a hotel. As we arrived at the hotel, we noticed that there were no women in the lobby or anywhere on the street. We do recall that on the airplane, the women who boarded from Manchester, England, were dressed casually, and as we approached our landing, they all went to the washrooms, dressed in the Muslim dress, loaded with jewelry from head to toe. The men wore very loose baggy pants and a shirt or cover from shoulder to below the knees.

We had our first different cultural encounter with the hotel manager. We asked if they had a room for two; oh yes, he replied, it would be thirty dollars American, but why don’t you have some breakfast first and we will get the room ready in the meantime. After we had our breakfast, the manager said the room which he thought he had available, wasn’t, but he had a better room for $38.00 American. Fine, we said, and we accepted it.

After we rested, we decided to go out and look around. The streets were very busy, traffic moving in all directions, cars, horse drawn buggies, bicycles and on foot, constant congestion, but nobody gets into an accident, also it seems that nobody moves out of the way for anyone. Small Suzuki cars everywhere, but no beggars, keep in mind this is about the centre of Pakistan. If you went south, where the population is enormous, there, I was told, you would find beggars and thieves. The men were very polite, all were dressed the same, and I mean exactly the same. Only men, everywhere, young and old, but no women.

The living standards are very poor, but they are all the same, so this way no one feels short changed. We were glad we took all the vaccinations back home. I believe that is the only thing that would save us. Things are not very clean, also no government assistance of any kind and only up to grade 3 free schooling. No alcohol of any kind, it is pure and simply illegal, or any other drugs. But the one and only drug is cigarettes and they are being exploited with advertising.

The next day, we knew the airport was closed again, so we hired a private taxi to take us to Gilgit. About 300km, up the highway, the traffic stopped still. We went to look and to our sad surprise the mountain had slid and the road was cut off, with big boulders and mud. We asked the Army men when the road would be cleared, and they told us not for at least 2 days. So I took out my movie camera and started acting like a tourist. The scenery was spectacular, simply beautiful. Sky high mountains with a rushing river at the bottom of the gourge. People everywhere, some decided to walk past the slide and continue on their destination. We decided to turn back because we didn’t know any better.

Back we turned; we were furious, mad, very mad. We thought we were doomed, back to Pindi, again no flights, no roads. The next day, this is now two days later, we had breakfast and headed to a Pakistani government office. There we told them our story and the purpose of our trip. The man was very nice, he told us to forget flying, because even if the sky cleared for a short time, government officials would be the first to board and because no flights took off for a week there was a back log of people. Take a 4 x 4, which is a jeep or stay here for the duration of your holiday. Thanks to Visa, plus 20% for the use of it, because we did not have an American Express, and they did not take any other cards or travelers cheque. We charted a different course, instead of gong first to Hunza Valley, we would go west to Chitral Valley and meet the Kalashi people. This was the perfect destination, because I read a lot about the Kalashi people.

First point of interest on the road to Chitral valley was pointed out to us by the driver, the road built by Alexander the Great and his army. This road was from Kabul, Afghanistan to Calcuta, India. We stopped to take photos and I walked on the same footsteps of Alexander. I felt very touched, 2300 years later, the first Macedonians, Steve Pliakes and Michael Keathly felt part of Alexander. You have to be there to feel the emotions.

As we went on our journey, the driver again pointed one of the narrow passes that Alexander went on. This pass was called the Malakand Pass, and not too far was Kyber Pass. These are mountain tracks, some places they are paved, but most are no more than 4 feet wide. But the road Alexander the Greats army built was solid. I believe the Macedonians were the first road builders and what other way can an army travel. Most of this road was scavenged and only small parts remain intact.

The people in these parts of the country are very hard working. They take the mountain and slowly turn it into beautiful terraced and lush fields. Also, the aqueduct methods that they use are out of this world. Every village and every household have water right to their homes. All by engineering methods of redirecting the river and making these aqueducts.

As we took a closer look at these people, they have blue eyes, a fair complexion. They are totally different from the Muslim Pakistanis, in fact they do not want to be called Pakistani, because they are not, they stated this to us. Michael and I even joked as to which one of these men were our brothers. As the day came close to the end, we decided to spend the night at a town called Dir. To our amazement, again more of our brothers and sisters were visible. We walked the main street of Dir. There we saw the small shops where people were selling anything they could sell. At the restaurant, we had mountain tea, thin bread called Chipati, a flat, round in the middle loaf of bread. In the east they call it Pita bread. They also served us yogurt, or I call it sour cream, and a delicious plate of cucumbers, yogurt and garlic.

The next morning, off we go to Chitral, a Town and the valley called Chitral. It was about 100 km to Chitral, a very remote area, no road as we would call it. River flowing, rocks falling and rivers crossing and blocking the road. Now I understand how these people remained in isolation. We drove to a height of 10,500 feet. It was cold and windy, and you couldn’t stand at the edge of the road for fear of being blown over.

People live and eke a living from the mountains. We stopped for tea where a family lived and worked. We also bought goat cheese for the long drive. The speed we travelled was not more than 10-20 khm.

We reached Chitral Valley. It is beautiful. The river flowing through the middle of the valley. The people have very fair complexions, with blue eyes; mind you there were darker people among the lighter skinned or Kalashe as they call themselves. Sadly, creeping civilization is now always good for some people and some areas in the world. But they must accept change, and as change comes, we lose the innocence and the old traditions. As far as Michael and myself are concerned, we came here in the nick of time. The first Macedonians and hopefully not the last.

Daily, I was writing my findings, as we witnessed everything. Early the next morning to be precise July 29, 1995, we are leaving Chitral for another valley called Kalash Valley. It took 2 ó hours, over the most treacherous road you could imagine. Again, these are not roads, goat trails. If it were not for the jeep, we would never have reached anywhere. Stones were all over the road, falling everywhere, it was very scary. At one time, our driver, a Muslim asked if he could stop the jeep to pray. We agreed and even asked him to pray for all of us. As we approached Kalash valley, we were stopped by an official and he asked us to record the purpose of our trip, the passport number and the length of our stay. Naturally we had to pay him. They told us this is frontier territory and the locals do not like Pakistanis, so we obeyed as instructed.

As we entered the Kalash valley, we could see the beauty before us. The lush scenery, the rivers flowing and merging, the fruit trees, mainly apricots, plums, mulberries and grapes. The vegetables growing everywhere. They grow two crops a year on the same plots, thus enabling them to survive because of land shortage. To make a plot of land, first they have to remove all rocks from the lot, and they built a stone wall horizontally so there won’t be any land erosion, then a slow process of planting first grass so that top soil could be retained. All this time an aqueduct has to be built to irritate the soil and then a house will be built to accommodate the rest of the family. We were met by a young man called Dawoo, who spoke English. He took us to the cemetery and showed us their method of burying people. He said as far back as approximately fifty years ago, they were laying the coffin on the ground. This was a custom which came from Afghanistan, but recently they bury their dead underground.

He showed us a place where they gather during their festivities. An open concept with a roof. This is for the summer. There they dance and romance. There were many carvings on wooden posts or pillars. We saw the Macedonian flower, Zdravets on these carvings, although the flower does not grow anywhere in Kalash valley or Hunza valley.

We went to the place of worship. An enclosed room, again decorated with carvings on walls and posts, more of the same and also shapes of the sunburst, Alexander’s flag. We asked what religion they worshipped, and they said they believe in God, and if you are good in this life, you go up to a beautiful place, and if you are bad, you go down to bad places and suffer forever. They are not Pakistanis and they do not even like the Pakistanis. In their place of worship, I did see the sign of crosses, here they don’t pray, they sing and dance. As we concluded our walk, we finally stopped to rest and have some food. Talking and eating, we learned they were told by their elders and foreigners about Alexander the Great. Also, they were told of their blue eyes and fair complexion and that they are descendants of Alexander the Great. All countries that Alexander conquered, there were Macedonians living there. I asked them if they knew where Alexander was buried, and they said maybe Bagdad.

Every week they have dances at different villages. Kalsh Valley has three villages. That same evening, we were asked if we wanted to go to their village to dance. Of course, we agreed and by nine p.m. we arrived on an open court yard where the dance was being performed. Only single girls dance, from ages of about 8 to 15 or 16. They all dance the same as all Macedonians; counter clockwise, with a leader and a tail end person. All shoulder to shoulder with their hands stretched. Young girls in the centre of the oro and according to groups and the oldest girls on the outside. Men only observe. I should mention, no cover charge and no other business were conducted, very innocent. All the girls were dressed in their best costumes. Lovely embroidery and head pieces. The band consisted of two drummers, one small and one larger. The drummers sang and tapped their drums. The girls sang and dances. Men dance in the day time, I was told. The dance lasted until about 12 or 1:00 A.M. and off to work the next morning.

The next morning, we went back to their temple, although that is not what they call it. We took a few more pictures and the off to another valley and more people to see. But we had to use the same road, it was awful. This is when it dawned on me of the movie “Lost Horizons” Shangrila. In the movie it was snow storms and blizzards, with us it was rocks and floods.

On to Hunza, following a mountain range called Hindukush. We came to an old fort about 300 to 400 years old called Massooch. Here we met the owner of the property, who was a Prince before Pakistan took their title and made them commoners. We discussed religion and most of all, Alexander the Great. He told us that every young man, when he grows up wants to be as wise and strong as Alexander. They even study it in school and he told us that he felt he was a descendent of Alexander of Macedonia, who conquered Athens, Egypt, Persia, Afghanistan and down to today Pakistan and India, after about four cups of mountain tea, we returned to our tent for the night. The next morning, I found the dogs had chewed up one of my shoes. Breakfast was scambled eggs and tea. On the road again. What road, 10 KHM was the fastes speed for another day.

We are following the hindukush mountain range with the Gilgit River running in the middle between both sides of the mountains. First stop was at a hotel on the road go Gilgit. The hotel consisted of three tents, on for the staff and two for customers. Bathroom facilities on the river. For lunch we had two little fish the size of smelt flat bread, corn soup and tea. As we drove for a few hours, we stopped by the river to wash our faces. Well, the water was so cold that if you were in it for 10 minutes you would be dead. Off we go chugging along 10 to 20 KHM more or less, until the next stop. Along the way, we found young boys fishing. We bought fish as we went on until we had about 10 of them. We finally found a place to stay, a cabin with no hydro of course. The driver cooked the fish we bought. We also bought some cucumbers and tomatoes, and we had the best drink ever, mountain tea. As I am writing this report three young boys are watching us and wondering what we are doing here in their land, but we must drive on after a night’s sleep. I guess all good things in life you have to pay dearly, both physically and financially in order to see or feel.

On the road again. Now the Hindukush Mountains become the Karakoram mountains. Spectacular view as usual and the road is called the Karakoram highway, built by China and Pakistan, finally we reach Gilgit and rested at the Chinar Inn. We finally ordered a can of beer each, cool and delicious. After we drank it, we found out that it was nonalcoholic which suited us just fine. We forgot that alcohol is illegal in Pakistan. I admire the Muslim religion, no alcohol. The next morning, we are headed towards a town called Karimabad. As you know Gilgit is in Hunza valley. Along the way we stopped to buy apricots, mulberries and grapes, mangoes and vegetables. We found a good stream and there we stopped for a picnic. At Karimabad, there was no room, so we drove 2 km and came to a village called Altit. We found room here at a hotel called Kissar Inn. A real dream place, a beautiful grape covered shelter throughout the whole courtyard. In front, the mountain Rakaposhi, show capped. We even witnessed an avalanche. A beautiful sight all around us. We decided to have a shower, a very cold shower naturally. That same day we visited a fort called Fort Altit. As we entered the fort, we saw carvings of the flower Zdravets and the Sunburst. After the fort, we went shopping for souvenirs and I mean real antiques, carvings and whatever you wished.

The following morning, we went to visit the Mir of Hunza. We had a 9:30 AM appointment. A real gentleman, but also a rich one. We told him we are Macedonian, and he said he was a descendent of Alexander the Great. We had about a two-hour meeting. We covered a lot including the Muslims in Macedonia. He didn’t know there were Muslims in Europe. I gave him presents that I brought along. I should say that I gave presents everywhere I met people of interest to me. He loved the Macedonian flag. He said that he would make every effort to adopt it as the flag of Hunza. He asked what Macedonia exported because he was very interested in us. I told him we export tobacco, shoes, clothes, jam and wines. He wants closer ties with us and the Republic. In the meantime, he wants us to send him anything he could display at all of his hotels. As we departed he told us to stay at his brother’s Inn along the way because it had a museum. What a store, again we saw ancient souvenirs, the Zdravets, the flag and real artistic works of art. The museum person told us that a particular stone was from the time of Alexander. I held it in my hand, I was very excited.

The next day we parted for China. We are on the Karakoram mountain range and Karakoram highway and the Gilgit river becomes the Hunza river. What a road, they call it the highway to Heaven, very scenic and very dangerous, rock slides and mud slides. Finally, we reached China. The elevation was 17,000 feet above sea level. You could not run around here. I tried and got dizzy, then I realized the air is very thin. We met some Chinese tourists and naturally we told them we were Macedonians from the land of Alexander the Great. By now we weren’t surprised to hear that everybody knew of Alexander the Great. As we left for Gilgit, we stopped and bought silk for dresses and shirts. Further down we stopped along a beautiful river, a true turquoise color, then we bought some fish and the young man cooked them for us, and made us tea. I believe we got hosed at the next town, which is normal, small amounts to us, but large for them.

The next day the driver took us and showed us his home. Five miles on the mountain, a one room house, dirt floor, chickens living under the bed, the stable was the next room. He had one bull, one water buffalo and two baby ones. He had three girls and two boys. His wife and mother cooked dinner for us, friend meat, okra, yogurt and tea. Inat, the driver, wants us to sleep at his home that night, but there was no room. He was going to sleep in the stable if we stayed. So, we decided to go to the nearest town called Balakose. There we booked at the hotel, had a shower and did our last clothing wash in a pail. The next day will be our last in Pakistan.

We went to a town called Taxila with plenty of history. A monastery with immense Macedonian information, a tremendous find for us. Everywhere we looked, we found history of Alexander. At the souvenir shop we gave the owner the Macedonian flag. At first, he didn’t believe, but when he opened a book of all the countries in the World, sure enough there was Macedonia with its flag.

I urge all Macedonians wherever you may be, do not wait for someone else to write your history. Go out and tell the World the truth, see for yourselves, what is out there waiting for you. We must change the course that others took to falsify our history. We are as old as the Egyptians. We did have an Empire, which lasted 500 years. Alexander’s adventure took him about 7,000 miles, to promote culture. We travelled only 200 miles following in his footsteps. Imagine what is out there for us to find, more and more of our roots.

BOOK: IN SEARCH OF MACEDONIANS IN PAKISTAN BY MICHAEL A. DIMITRI (1995)
Steve Pliakes and Michael A. Dimitri’s journey through the valley of Kalash and Hunza, in Pakistan, discovers successors to Alexander of Macedon

Alexander of Macedon is the great one for his successors, the present-day Macedonians, and the great one for every nation in the world. He created and left as heritage the philosophy of bringing together nations, cultures, religions … Hence, Alexander is a great challenge for numerous researchers, scientists, travel-writers, journalists and ordinary mortal beings, who treat him with respect, love, and strong faith in the past, the presence, and the future.

This is also the case with Steve Pliakes and Michael A. Dimitri’s challenge to travel to northern Pakistan. The book titled “In Search of the Macedonians in Pakistan” came as the result of this long, painstaking and interesting trip. This book, modest in pages, yet large in events, represents a kind of travelogue about the “campaign” of Steve Pliakes, a Macedonian from Canada and Michael A. Dimitri, an American of Macedonian descent. The book was first published in English, but was recently published in Macedonian, which signifies a significant contribution towards the clearing up of the truth and enigmas related to Alexander of Macedon. ublished by the publishing house “Alexandra” P.O. Box 5321, Fort Wayne, Indiana, the text was translated by Ilina Jakimovska, and edited by Alexandar and Pavlinka Georgiev.

The author of the interesting publication, Michael A. Dimitri, was born in the USA, in 1960. His grandparents’ roots go back to the village of Nevolyani, near Lerin and the village of Olishta, near Kostur. He grew up with tales about Macedonia, which made him want to, and helped him learn more about his and the rich history of the Macedonian people. After getting his degree in classical studies at “Michigan” state university, and his MA a “Wayne” state university, he began working as professor at a number of important institutions in the USA. He is an historian, archaeologist, travel writer, lover of the Macedonian truth. At the same time, he is author of a number of books including “Splendor of the Acient Macedonians. “Neoptolemus” Daughter.” “Collection of Articles 1989-1999” and “Nevolyani: Portrait of a Macedonian Village.”

His companion, and like-minded friend, Stev Pliakes, was initiator and sponsor of the long journey to Pakistan. He is a well-known and distinguished Macedonian emigrant from Toronto, whose roots go back to the village of Zeleniche, near Kostur. Steve and his wife, the charming Lilly Pliakes, are virtuous Macedonians and donators. They donated a kidney machine to the hospital in Skopje, provide financial assistance for activities of the Macedonian organizations, folklore societies, clubs, and other kinds of associations. Among other things, Steve Pliakes was also president of the Macedonian organization, “United Macedonians” in Canada, and is now the president of the Macedonian Orthodox Church of St. Clement Ohridski” in Toronto. He is the man who carries Macedonia in his heart, and sincere respect.

The book, “In Search of the Macedonians in Pakistan” is the presice expression of the love Macedonians in the Diaspora of Stev Pliakes and Mihail A. Dimitri, towards their roots and their distant ancestors. As the author states in his introduction, their journey was in fact necessary in order to collect evidence as proof that the Macedonian culture is one of the oldest and most influential civilizations in the world. Thus, these two enthusiasts set off to follow Alexander of Macedon’s trail

It seems though that Mihail A. Dimitri got this idea from a certain woman at one of the Macedonian meetings who pointed out to him that there is a group of people living in Pakistan who claim to be descendants of Alexander of Macedon. According to the woman, they wree fair-skinned, and had similar costumes and customs to those familiar to us., Macedonians. She also said to him:”You should go there, and see for yourself.”

This though troubled Steve Pliakes, who invited Mihail A. Dimitri in 1995 to take part in the research in Pakistan. They arrived there in July 1995, first in the city of Ravalpindi, later going to Chitral, finally reaching the valley of Kalash and Hunza, where according to some sources, descendants to the soldiers of Alexander of Macedon live today. The purpose of the journey was to gather evidence for knowledge and records on Macedonian culture throughout the world, to prove that the Macedonian tongue, customs, traditions, and other characteristics are recognizable.

The conclusion of the book “In Search of Macedonians in Pakistan” tells us that this is not full research, but merely evidence of the first steps made towards a better understanding and lightening up of Macedonian culture and history. Therefore, deeper and much more extensive research is necessary. The author hopes that his journey will motivate other journeys. Steve Pliakes is now preparing to start similar research of Anatolia, Persia … He continues to point out that the Macedonians remained behind in Northern Pakistan in the course of Alexander of Macedon’s conquests and they retained their culture.

The book contains information that Steve Pliakes and Mahail A. Dimitri found traces and symbols characteristic of Macedonian culture. Thus, they found the same geranium flower in the valleys of Kalash and Hunza as could be found in Macedonia from as early as the ruling of Philip II intil the present day. The author states that the symbol of the flaming Macedonian Sun with rays could also be seen in the valley of Kalash and Taksilla, the grape vine is a symbol in Macedonia and the two Pakistani valleys and the symbol of snakes represented in various ways can also be found. Folk dress in Taksilla were very similar to some costumes in Macedonia. This was also the case with some traditional folk dances in the region. They also found a large number of words in the Kalash and Hunza tongue which are similar to those used in Macedonian. This too, can serve as motivation for further research.

According to the author, the influence of a defined, independent Macedonian culture over the people in Northern Pakistan is indisputable. Steve Pliakes and Mihail A. Dimitri’s journey clearly shows that this connection does exist, and it deserves further research for greater accomplishments.

Hence, the author concludes his text by saying: ”The splendor of Macedonian culture will be understood and completely free only if its people remain strong and united like the geranium flower which represents it.”

Edited with permission from: Steve Pliakes Monograph by Slave Katin